Our country is young. Yet it is just old enough for locations to have a history. A history of once being something else. As we rolled into Great Smoky Mountains National Park, Ms. Google directed us to the only open campground on the Tennessee side of the park, Elkmont. The campground was named after a lumbering town that once graced the banks of the Little River. Now the town site is home to 200 campsites nestled between towering stately trees that sway in the winter wind as if they’re searching for dance partners.
Even though only one loop is open in the winter, we walked our dog, Molly, throughout the entire campground. The sound of the river water rushing down the mountain creates a natural sense of peace that permeates the Elkmont area.
At the edge of the campground, we crossed the river over a stone bridge and stumbled upon Daisy Town, a turn-of-the-century summer retreat for Knoxville’s elite. The historic row of private residences was once part of the Appalachian Club. When the Great Smoky Mountain National Park was formed many of the cottage owners were granted lifetime leases. The last two residents turned their dwelling over to the park in 2001.
Amidst the swirling brown leaves dancing in the wind gusts, we heard the sound of a hammer pounding and rocks being tossed around. At the end of the row, two National Park employees were hard at work restoring a cabin. We saw another dwelling with a fresh coat of blue paint and the Appalachian Clubhouse building was sporting a new set of support beams.
At one time the park planned to remove the cottages, but in 1994 Daisy Town was placed on the National Registry of Historic Places. The park appears to be slowly breathing to life into the aging buildings. With metal rooftops covered in leaves, doors open here and there, and windows missing glass panes, the place has a neglected but magical air. Traveling with Molly in national parks tends to limit our woodland exploring as dogs are not allowed on most hiking trails, so Daisy Town was a wonderful find.